Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
