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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.